Oscar Wilde once said that when good Americans die, they go to Paris. For many people, Paris is more of an idea than a place. It’s something we all aspire to or wish we could be. The beauty of the architecture. The stunning cafes and the Palais Royal. The Champs Elysée and the sidewalk cafes. It’s all there for your enjoyment and sometimes you have to pinch yourself while you are there just to believe it is real since it seems like a dream.
My dream of going back to Paris became a reality recently when I took a brief trip there for a few days to soak up the culture during the waning winter days. The weather was gray as it often is there at this time of year, but no matter, it could have been raining the entire time and I wouldn’t have noticed.
This was not my first trip as I had been on a few occasions with my parents, friends and due to work over the years. On those trips I saw all of the sights including the Louvre, Notre Dame, Musee d’Orsay and the Tour Eiffel, to name a few of the landmarks everyone must visit at least once. Since that time, I have been to the Picasso Museum, the Pantheon and the Musee Rodin. All are impressive and well worth the time if you can squeeze them in on a trip.
On this trip, however, I was more geared to visiting places that define my own special interests, which almost always center around food or cooking. Just as I did on my last trip for work in 2009, I wandered in the amazing marches, with a special trip to Marche d’Aligre and a visit to a famous wine bar, Baron Rouge. I wandered on the Rue des Martyrs up to the top of Montmartre and viewed Sacre Coeur, the byzantine themed cathedral that sits on the highest point of the city. And I spent time in some of the storied boutiques wandering around, including a visit to the Grande Épicerie de Paris, which sits across the street from Bon Marche, one of the oldest department stores in the world with a façade envisioned by Gustave Eiffel. I also visited bakeries and tasted every single patisserie I could get my hands on – including pain au chocolat and croissants galore as well as amazing crusty baguettes.
I stayed at a very comfortable, recently renovated hotel, the Victoria Palace Hotel in the 6th arrondissement very close to St. Germain des Pres. The location was perfect as you could walk very easily to the Metro with two stations, Saint Placide and Montparnasse, within easy distance. Right around the corner, was great shopping, multiple restaurants and numerous sights including Eglise Saint Sulpice, the oldest church in Paris, Eglise St. Germain des Pres and the Musee de Cluny, which sits over a Roman foundation and tells the tale of Paris’ earliest beginnings. I can highly recommend the hotel and would stay there again. The staff was superb and I particularly enjoyed having a glass of wine there each evening before retiring for the night.
Where I Ate
Le Bon Georges – I am a fan of Lidey Heuck’s LideyLikes and read her most recent blog on Paris with interest as she visited this restaurant which was also highlighted by David Lebovitz as a must visit bistro. I was not disappointed. With a chalkboard menu and a list of every changing seasonal specials, Bon Georges is a special place worth visiting. The night I visited, two gentlemen were there tasting various wines to bring back to their restaurant in Rome. They did not mind sharing the champagne and now I want to find it here in the states. Beyond the ultra-thick pork chop served with apples and a calvados cream sauce, I loved the fluffy side of mashed potatoes and the amazing dessert, baba au rhum, a cake which came split in half with a side of vanilla bean scented whipped cream and a large amount of rum that came served with a flourish by the waitress.
Josephine Chez Dumonet – Probably my favorite dinner of the trip as it ended with a flourish with a delicious and ultra-light Grand Marnier souffle! But the rest of the meal was equally memorable with a rare steak served with a side of roasted potatoes and foie gras to start and a healthy glass of cote du rhone!
Café Marguerite – On a walk up the Rue des Martyrs, one of my absolute favorite streets in Paris, I stopped at this winsome café as I was famished and needed something to eat after a great deal of walking around! I decided to order a beef tartare which came with a variety of accompaniments and a plate of frites along with a glass of cotes du rhone!
Du Pain des Idees – Probably the best bakery or patisserie I have ever been to in my life, this is a stop for anyone who treasures baked goods and it’s so wonderful that it isn’t open on weekends, which meant I had to hightail it over to the Canal St. Martin on my first day in town, a Friday, to enjoy it’s many wonderful offerings. They are famous for their pistachio escargot pastry. It’s light, flaky and amazing with green pistachio and chocolate woven within the layers of pastry. But everything else I tried was also equally wonderful including a banana chocolate croissant and a bacon and cheese turnover. I wanted to eat everything in sight, but as it was just me alone sampling everything, I only tried a few items and promised myself I would be back!
Ellsworth – I was compelled to give this snug, elegant space a try based on several positive notices about its prix fix menu. To that end, I tried a duck tarte tatin, which tasted like duck a’la orange on a flaky pastry with an appetizer course consisting of roast broccoli with capers and anchovy butter. Dessert was the highlight as they served a delicious Baked Alaska with soft ice cream and flamed meringue on top. The only downside? Service was a bit perfunctory and not the usual lengthy affair as one sensed the table was needed for more guests.
Brasserie Lipp – One of the oldest brasseries in Paris, the Lipp sits in the heart of St. Germain des Pres across the street from Café Deux Magots and Café Flores and has a literary history in its own right sponsoring the Prix Cazes, a literary prize awarded each year to an author who has won no other literary prize. Since its founding in 1880, it has welcomed the great names that have left their mark on French literature including Gide, Malraux, Proust, St Exupéry, Camus, and Sartre to name a few. It’s fun to sit inside and watch the flurry of activity as beleaguered waiters tend to families, couples and others looking for standard French fair in a traditional setting. I went for a helping of foie gras on toast points (I can’t help my love for this delicacy!) and a glass of sparkling wine.
Early Bird Artisinal Coffee Roasters – One of my first stops in Paris was to the Marche d’Aligre located near Ladru Rollin. I absolutely love this market which is one of the best in Paris and has both an outdoor and indoor component. On this particular trip, I desperately needed coffee after arriving early in the morning on my flight and stopped here to speak with the proprieter who generously shared her insights on the city and gave me her recommendations in flawless English. I learned she was married to an Irishman similar to me and enjoyed what was most certainly the best café crème I enjoyed on the trip. I walked away with a lovely herbal tea mix and a robust ground coffee that I brought home with me. I can’t recommend this enough and plan to return here on my next trip!
Salon Proust – Tea at the Ritz – I have always wanted to visit the Ritz Hotel, which is a stunning historically relevant hotel located in the Place Vendome not far from the Place de la Concorde. I knew of it even as a young girl as my dad worked at the U.S. Embassy, the oldest diplomatic mission of the U.S. which sits not far away from this location. Of course, like others, I knew the hotel was the final stop for Princess Diana before her untimely death at 37 and I read about former U.S. Ambassador to France Pamela Harriman’s death in the swimming pool no less after suffering from a cerebral hemorrhage. It just added to the mystery and the glamour for me of the place. The tea, which is served in the elegant Salon Proust, was as one might expect, phenomenal. The service was delightful and the pastries sublime. Of the many offerings, I think I enjoyed the filled madeleines the most in addition to a finger of pastry with chocolate and meringue that was very light and beautiful. The experience of being in the Salon during Paris Fashion Week was also quite memorable given that so many people were parading by in their finest clothing for the events.
Hemingway Bar at the Ritz – This is a very small (25 seats) and quite famous watering hole in the Ritz Hotel that is managed by a skilled bartender named Colin Field, who has worked for the company for a number of years and has been ranked by Forbes and Travel & Leisure as the top bartender in the world. He invented the signature drinks at the bar, the Serendipity and the Picasso Martini. If you ae lucky enough to sit at the bar as I did, he will weave a tale and spend a good deal of time telling you about his life and career, which is frankly quite fascinating. Without any prompting, he told me about his work on behalf of Mohammad Al Fayed, the owner of the Ritz and father of Dodi Al Fayed, who perished in the accident in 1997 with Princess Diana. He stated that Mr. Al Fayed is an honorable man who is thoughtful to his employees and takes care of people. I was curious about his thoughts on New York, which he does not enjoy and Washington, DC, which he seemed to have fond memories of on trips in the past. Either way, going to this bar is quite an experience, although if you don’t arrive early you will end up waiting in line for a seat since the bar is so small. As for the drinks, I have had better namely at the American Bar at the Savoy in London, but the atmosphere at this bar and Colin himself lend something wonderful and unique to the experience that make it a must do on any trip to Paris.
Petit Vendome – The winner for the award of the best sandwich in Paris goes to this small unassuming little shop in the shadow of the Place Vendome. It serves a few combinations of sandwiches, but anyone coming here would do well to order what it is known for, which is a perfectly made baguette with ham, cheese and butter. Everything is hand sliced and put together to order and served with a small amount of cornichons if you so desire. Even on a cold day like I experienced when visiting, you will want to sit outside with your sandwich and watch the world walk by. If I could have grabbed one for the flight home, I would have! Perfection.
Other Places
Marche Aux Puces – One place I really wanted to visit on this particular trip was the flea market at Saint-Ouen, which is known as the largest open-air flea market in the world. Made up of multiple blocks of stalls containing everything from antiques to neon signs, knock off clothing, and linens – this is the place to come if you are looking for something unusual to take home as a remembrance from your trip! It is such a large market, that you may want to consult the map before going. Either way, it’s an easy trip on either the Bus or Metro and a great way to do some serious people watching as the market draws people from all walks of life from Paris and beyond. Bring some cash in case you want to bargain, which is possible!
Shopping
Rue des Martyrs – This is probably one of my favorite streets in Paris and I have my dear friend Cecile to thank for it as she suggested I read the book “The Only Street in Paris: Life on the Rue des Martyrs.” There is an amazing array of food shops here that offer such diverse items as dumplings, cheese, meringues, ice cream and a butcher. It’s fun to wander up the long street from Notre Dame de Lorette at the bottom of the Hill leading up to Montmartre and stop in the many establishments lining the way.
Bon Marche – My husband was interested in a men’s scarf, so I visited the best department store in the city for this purpose and looked at numerous silk scarves only to come away with a plain black scarf that seemed to be ubiquitous around the city and therefore, something he might actually wear. While in the store, I also checked out the makeup and perfume departments and was delighted to see that many brands offered at home were also available, although I was a bit disappointed that there wasn’t anything particularly Parisian. I did end up talking with a few women trying on lipstick at a specialty stall, La Bouche Rouge, and tried on several colors with the others and decided on an everyday hue that seemed to go with my dark coloring. If you happen to be on the Left Bank, this is a must see destination although you will need deep pockets to afford anything!
Galeries Lafayette – This is probably the most famous department store in Paris with a location not far away from the Paris Opera House. It has to be seen to be believed as the interior is simply stunning. This is department store shopping at its finest. It can be crowded on the weekends, so plan ahead in terms of what you are interested in buying. It’s also fun to go to the Galeries food hall located down the street for a browse of some amazing take away food stalls or to have a meal in one of the cafes. The set up is quite impressive as one whole part of the store is for women and across the street, you can find an entire part of the store devoted to menswear. Definitely a must do if you can swing the time.
Oh My Cream – This boutique with a few locations in the city offers some of the finest skincare and beauty options from around the globe and offers generous samples to decide what may be needed. There are up to 45 brands to choose from including Augustinus Bader and Tata Harper. It’s a fun stop for anyone interested in the best lines of skincare on the market.
Maille – If you enjoy Dijon mustard, the place for you is this standalone shop in the shadow of the Madeleine with numerous varieties to choose from. I opted for a sampler with cassis, champignons, and fine herbes. They will let you taste some of the flavors and offer a mustard “sommelier” who is equipped for this purpose to provide special recommendations of flavors depending on your interests.
Recommendations
1. Make Reservations for Restaurants and Museums – If you are interested in going to some of the top tables or must see destinations in the city, you would do well to plan ahead by making reservations. Every single place I visited was packed or had a queue of eager people who were happy to wait as long as it took to get to a destination, even braving cold windy weather and lengthy interludes. You simply can’t show up without a plan as you could a few years ago. Restaurateurs want a guarantee that people will show up and are requesting credit cards in advance so people can’t really change their minds. It’s unfortunate but understandable and a small price to pay to enjoy the meal you want!
2. Bring a Large Suitcase – On my last few vacations, I have tried to keep packing to a minimum and while that was great in terms of being able to carry my suitcase on the plane, I couldn’t fit anything I wanted to buy in my suitcase when it was time to go home. On this trip, I did not make that mistake as I was eager to buy housewares, clothing, perfume and other treasures that I cannot find at home. If I could have brought home butter, pastries and bread, they would have gone into my case as well!
3. Get Out of the Tourist Cycle – Everyone who visits Paris sees the same places and even the storied cafes are places well noted in guidebooks. While visiting the Louvre is something everyone should do once, it’s even more meaningful to go to those places that people don’t take the time to visit such as the Palais de Tokyo or the Canal St. Martin. You will be rewarded with special experiences such as unique one of a kind bakeries or wine bars and conversations with the real residents of Paris who are more approachable and willing to spend time sharing information on the city and where to go. I wanted to sit in the café Flores and enjoy a coffee, but after looking at the ridiculously long line, I settled for a non-descript bakery not far from my hotel that won a few awards for patisserie and was quite happy. The Canal was beautiful and it was wonderful to see it sparkling in the sunshine as parents strolled with their children and walked their dogs.
4. Go to a Market – One of the things that I absolutely love about France are the many fabulous markets that exist throughout the country. In Paris in particular, there are many to choose from with diverse offerings. Although I am often in a hotel or eating out when I visit the city, it doesn’t stop me from wandering in the various places and picking up something amazing. One of the biggest markets is located at Bastille and has stalls offering paella, fruits and vegetables, cheese and baked goods. Another is Marche President-Wilson which has high quality fishmongers and a decent range of hot foods, such as Alsatian charcroute, pate and rotisserie chicken. It’s one of the best places to get a Breton crepe if you should feel moved to try one. But my true favorite as noted earlier is Marche d’Aligre, which is one of the oldest markets and has second hand clothing in addition to books and food stalls. As an added bonus, everyone should visit the Baron Rouge wine bar not far from the market, where you can find a lovely, affordable glass of wine after picking up something amazing for a meal back home!
5. Pick the Right Neighborhood for You to Stay In – In considering where to stay in Paris, I recalled trips from prior times and decided I absolutely wanted to be in St. Germain des Pres on the left bank as it is close to some things I truly love – Jardin du Luxembourg, the most romantic and beautiful park in the city, Bon Marche, the storied department store, Pierre Herme, the best macarons ever bar none, Patrick Roger, for lovely chocolates of all kinds of flavors and St. Germain des Pres and Saint Sulpice, the beautiful, mysterious and stately places of worship that awakens your soul. This area suited my interest, but some people like to be I the shadow of the Tour Eiffel or in the midst of the Pantheon or Opera House. My favorite trip was actually my first with my parents when I stayed on the outskirts of town in a cheap motel because I was discovering everything for the first time. No matter where you land, you should do your research and try to be as close as you can to what matters to you!
6. Use Public Transportation When Possible – To get around the city, the best way to see everything and the most affordable option is to use the Paris Metro or bus system. It is very easy to buy a carnet, which is ten tickets, or to put money on a card and use the tickets ubiquitously throughout the system no matter where you land. Admittedly, some of the stations are not always close to where you are going, but the joy is in walking and discovering something new. Plus the transportation system is ultra clean, efficient and modern. At night, I used taxis and they were easy to order