A Trip to Beantown

My sister lived in Boston for over a decade and during the time she was there we had a chance to get to know the city and surrounding areas intimately. Although we were sad when she decided to move to Rhode Island, which is also a beautiful area, she still lives close enough that we are able to enjoy the city from time to time and visit some of her former stomping grounds and relive some of our favorite places.

To me, although my home state of Maryland has some amazing seafood, nothing compares to the preparation of the seafood that you find in New England. On a recent trip to visit the city with my son Luke and my sister I was reminded why Boston is a unique city that should be on everyone’s list for a visit!

There are many things I enjoy when we visit Boston, one of the most historic cities in the country. First, everyone should see a baseball game at Fenway Park, the oldest and most storied field in the sport. You may cheer for another team (mine is the Baltimore Orioles) but everyone needs to go and experience it first-hand. While working for Anheuser Busch for 22 years, my sister visited many a stadium and still says this is the best one out there. I will take her at her word! Of course, Boston is also famous for its starring role in the American Revolution in the late 1700s. It is also renowned as a center of learning with some of the most prestigious universities in the world, including Harvard and MIT to name just a few.

Boston can boast many firsts in the U.S., among them the first public park, Boston Common, and the first public school, the Boston Latin School. The single event though that Boston is most famous for is the Boston Tea Party, the December 1773 raid that saw American colonists boarding three British ships at Griffin’s Wharf and throwing 342 chests of tea into the harbor. The rebel Sons of Liberty, disguised as Mohawk Indians, were protesting against a British tax on tea and the monopoly held by the East India Company. This was the first open act of defiance against British rule and, following the 1770 Boston Massacre, was a significant precursor to the start of the American Revolution and our nation’s independence.

If you have never been to this historical city, it’s well worth a trip to the North End to trace the steps of the Freedom Trail and to see where Paul Revere once lived and owned a silversmith shop and made his famous midnight ride to alert nearby minutemen of the approach of British troops prior to the battles of Lexington and Concord.

Beyond the history, there are many other fun things to do on a trip to this wonderful city. One thing I really enjoy doing in Boston is going shopping. One of the best places to go is over to Newbury Street, which I was able to visit on this most recent trip. There, you will find boutiques that are all the rage in New York, but also a few specialty stores as well. You can walk all eight blocks and find salons, pop ups and fabulous dining options. We made a quick trip to meet up with our dear friends Kristen and John for brunch and popped into a King Arthur Flour pop up shop. It is not an understatement to say that we were excited since I visited the flagship store at headquarters a while ago in Vermont and spent probably two hours there browsing. They literally have everything anyone could dream about for a baker.

But there are many other stores including Amorino for gelato, Trident Booksellers and Café, and Johnny Cupcakes, a very unique shop that sells t-shirts and other fun items with a cupcake logo. If you prefer an enclosed mall and staying warm and dry from the cold winter weather, you can head over to the Prudential Center. Here you will find high-end shops and restaurants attached to one of the tallest buildings in the city as well as the convention center. I love going to Club Monaco, Saks Fifth Avenue, and Allbirds. Even more fun is Eataly which is an eatery and market originally from New York. It’s an excellent spot to have a dessert or to pick up a bottle of Italian wine or pasta.

Restaurants

I would be remiss if I didn’t share a few of my favorite places to eat and drink that you should most certainly check out if you are in Boston.

Neptune Oyster Bar – At the very top of my list is my absolute favorite spot, an Italian themed, tiny seafood mecca located in the North End and serving what many people believe is the best lobster roll in town. Whether you enjoy it cold as they do in Maine or hot, in the manner of folks from Connecticut, you cannot go wrong. We particularly love razor clams and the johnnycake. But honestly anything you order here will be amazing. Get here early as there is always a line.

Row 34 – I was deeply saddened when Island Creek Oysters closed during the pandemic, but thankfully all was not lost, as the same owners opened Row in the Seaport District, and it has been a wonderful addition to Boston’s restaurant scene. They have what I believe are the best biscuits outside of the South. Another must is the smoked seafood board which is generous enough to feed a hungry group of people. Skip the crab cake though. Sorry, but no one, and I mean no one makes a crab cake like we do in Maryland.

Toro – When this restaurant opened many years ago, it was the toast of the town for good reason, and it hasn’t lost its luster. Order the pan con tomate to start and make sure you have the gambas and dates with ham and blue cheese. It’s a fun place to meet up with friends and to have a glass or two of wine or sherry.

Peach Farm – It may not strike you that Boston has some excellent Chinese restaurants in their small, but mighty Chinatown, but this one is one of the best. There are hundreds of options on their lengthy menu, but one of the best things to get is the roast duck. And as you might expect, seafood is a star, particularly lobster with ginger and scallions.

Christina’s Homemade Ice Cream – While not a restaurant, I am an ice cream afficionado and routinely go out of my way to find the best places and Christina’s is a gem worth checking out if you should happen to be in Cambridge. I once watched a hapless father trying to stop his toddler who dropped his ice cream twice from screaming and I understood why! Get the chai flavor or the malted vanilla. If you drop it, don’t cry, just get another one!

Little Donkey – This is one funky restaurant located close to Harvard Square in Cambridge and my kids, who are sophisticated eaters who are well traveled really enjoyed this one. Spicy af duck wings are a must as are the Kowloon fried cauliflower and of all things, a unique parker house roll with furikake butter.

Bronwyn – Somerville doesn’t get a whole lot of attention outside of being the home of Tufts University and a fun Lego Museum, but it’s worth the trip alone for this wonderful spot, which has one of the best burgers in the city. The Bronburger is made of beef and pork and served on a pretzel bun. As someone who lived in Munich, I’m down for a good schnitzel and the one here delivers. Try the charcuterie boards – the mustard is the bomb!

Angela’s Café – I did not have high hopes for this spot in East Boston, but it ended up being a memorable meal that I have not forgotten. We needed to find a place for breakfast and this spot happens to be close to our friend Tracey’s. If you like huevos rancheros, chilaquiles or rancheros con chorizo, you will be very happy here. Reasonable food in a lively atmosphere and very fresh ingredients. I am jealous of Tracey!

Bars

Drink – This is a fun little spot in Fort Point that is worth checking out. Just make sure you bring deep pockets since it’s not inexpensive as some of us once found out on a business trip! We still talk about it many years later, so a good time was had by all. It’s the kind of place where you tell the bartender what you like, and they make a drink with that ingredient as the center star of your beverage. Have a drink here and then cross the street and try the next spot on the list!

Lucky’s Bar – This is one of my favorite places in the city, a dive bar, that really isn’t – at least to this girl who has spent some time in some dives in Baltimore, DC, and New York. It’s an old school spot perfect for a beer or a stiff drink. No frills, but totally fun and a place to make friends for life, my friend Kym and I are still talking about it!

Yvonne’s – This is the kind of place everyone needs on a miserable work trip and it’s exactly where my sister took me when I needed a break after a very long day of sitting through lectures. The bar is beautiful, and the cocktails are fun and decorative and just what you want when you need to cheer up. It’s a fancy supper club as well with decent food. But this will always be my go-to on a night when I want to smile.

Recommendations

1.      Take time to visit some of the world class museums. I particularly enjoy the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum, which is absolutely stunning and houses significant examples of European, Asian, and American art. It was the site of a famous robbery several years back when 13 pieces of artwork including a Vermeer, two Rembrandts were stolen that have yet to be recovered. I also like visiting the Boston Museum of Fine Arts, which has a fabulous museum store if you are looking to kill time. And if you should find yourself over by Harvard in Cambridge, you definitely should plan to check out the Harvard Museum of Natural History. We took my kids there when they were little, and we all really enjoyed it and learned so much. It is rare to find such an incredible museum on a college campus, but not every campus has one of the world’s largest endowments!

2.      Take a Ride on a Swan Boat in the Public Garden. It may seem touristy and a bit kitschy, but one of the more enjoyable ways to spend a beautiful afternoon in Boston is by taking a ride on a foot peddled swan boat in the park’s lagoon. Afterwards, a picnic will be in order and if you have children with you, perhaps a telling of the famous story “Make Way for Ducklings” which is set in the park and is about a family of ducks in the lagoon. The Spring season is the most beautiful and when the flowers in the park are at their absolute peak.

3.      Head out of town on a day trip. Some of the more pleasurable experiences have been on trips just outside of town! If you can rent a car, you are within reach of storied towns like Gloucester, which is a historic fishing town located on Cape Ann. You can see the real fisherman heading out to bring in cod and other fresh fish for the masses and visit the famous statue commemorating all who have lost their lives so that we might enjoy a meal. I particularly enjoy stopping at Woodman’s, which is a famous seafood shack in Essex not far from Gloucester. They claim to have invented fried clams. I believe them because I have never had one that is better. Another famous town to visit is Salem, made famous by the Witch Trials in the 1600s. My son Ryan was very frightened when he was little by all the images of witches, including on the city’s police cars. I’m not sure anyone could foresee the witches being celebrated all those many years ago, but it is fun to see the pageantry and visit some of the museums devoted to the history of the town. Finally, if you can spare time, plan a trip to Cape Cod. On the drive out, you will pass by Plymouth and the ferries for Martha’s Vineyard and Nantucket, two other must visit beautiful destinations.

4.      Have Tea in a Library. I’m obsessed with going to the library. A quiet contemplative place, filled with books? Sign me up. Pair it with tea and I’m golden. That’s what you can find in Boston’s Public Library’s historic McKim Building. The Courtyard Tea Room offers an elegant and intimate tea-time experience in the heart of Copley Square. If you look at hidden bookmarks on books at each table you will find the tea room’s menu, a prix fixe affair featuring sandwiches, sweets, and scones that pair excellently with the beautiful Italianate Courtyard that is on view.

5.      Check out the Mary Baker Eddy Library and Mapparium. My sister and I spent a lot of time exploring places we thought the kids would enjoy when she lived in Boston and among the more intriguing spots was a museum honoring the life, ideas, and achievements of Mary Baker Eddy – who discovered and founded Christian Science. Here you will find such items as rare documents, art and historic artifacts, photographs, books, and engaging audiovisuals. Another spot tucked inside the library is a real hidden gem, The Mapparium. Here you will find a three-story, stained-glass globe offering a three-dimensional perspective of the world. The Mapparium’s three-dimensional perspective of the 1935 world is enhanced by A World of Ideas, which is an original presentation featuring music, spoken words, and LED lights. It’s a unique and fun way to explore a beautiful building in the center of the city.